With its panoramic views, sparkling sapphire waters and captivating sunsets, Mallorca’s Sa Foradada peninsula has been reeling in the well-heeled and Hollywood sailing set for decades.
Now, there’s been a seismic shift as the A-lister crowd shuns discreet vessels in favour of big, bold superyachts owned by billionaire chums.
Actors Jennifer Aniston, Courteney Cox and Pedro Pascal were recently seen hanging out in the picturesque bay on Rising Sun, a deluxe vessel owned by David Geffen, a US billionaire, while megayacht Limitless, the sleek toy of Les Wexner, a fellow billionaire, was anchored close by.
Yet in spite of its new “Billionaire Bay” sobriquet, this peaceful and understated enclave at the foot of the Sierra de Tramuntana, just a few miles from the arty village of Deià, remains stubbornly unpretentious. This is because, despite the uber-wealthy continuing to drop anchor here, mere mortals are welcome too.
No superyacht? No problem. Simply charter a modest yacht from the Port of Sóller, explore the glassy waters by kayak, or hitch a lift on a local fisherman’s traditional llaüt, and enjoy the views.
And what views they are. One of the main attractions of this pristine area of coastline is the giant perforated rock, known as Sa Foradada – “the pierced one” in Mallorquí – which juts proudly out to sea from the steep, imposing limestone cliffs.
Formed by wind and sea erosion, the 60ft wide rock resembles a huge arch, and makes for a striking sight. Those with suitable stamina can explore the rocky terrain on foot from the tiny rustic jetty, though the ascent is not for the faint-hearted, particularly in the heat of summer.
Those after a less strenuous setting head for the ever-popular restaurant Sa Foradada, where Mediterranean fare and paella cooked on a wood fire are served al fresco on wooden terraces above the lapping waves. It’s a favourite of the yachties and affluent set, but once again, open to all.
For the cognoscenti, however, a simple picnic on the pebbles or under the olive trees on the nearby terraces is de rigueur. Although there is no beach, the crystal-clear waters are perfect for paddle-boarding and snorkelling, and strong swimmers can access the sea via rock ledges.
There’s plenty to do on this side of the island, too. A trip to Sa Foradada can be combined, for example, with a visit to the handsome Son Marroig estate, once owned by Archduke Ludwig Salvator, who also purchased the famed rock in the 19th century.
From Son Marroig to the cove, it’s a 50-minute strenuous hike along an aromatic rocky trail that zigzags through beguiling olive groves and Aleppo pine forests, filled with the chatter of cicadas, tinkling sheep bells and the bellows of resident donkeys.
Along this idyllic coastline are the villages of Valldemossa and Deià, both backed by the rugged Tramuntana mountain range, a Unesco World Heritage Site.
Valldemossa is notable for its connection with Frédéric Chopin, who, with his lover, George Sand, spent a disastrous winter sojourn at the local Carthusian monastery in 1838. It is here that Hollywood power couple Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones have their estate.
Deià, a fifteen-minute drive from Valldemossa, is the erstwhile home of Robert Graves, the prolific English writer, who set up home at Can Alluny in 1929 and became a magnet for prominent literary figures and actors such as Alan Sillitoe, Kingsley Amis, Peter Ustinov and Ava Gardner.
His old stone house, with its still-authentic ambience, can be visited all year round. Graves was buried in Deià cemetery by the church in the village, where his epitaph simply reads: Robert Graves, poeta.
The bijou Cala Deià, with its turquoise waters and narrow pebbly beach, is home to Cas Patró March, famed for its fresh fish platters, uninterrupted sea views and starring role in the BBC thriller The Night Manager.
The curvaceous mountain road from Deià, which promises spellbinding views to the sea, descends into Sóller, where an abundance of orange and lemon groves are a balm for the soul.
Here, the Natural Sciences Museum, botanical gardens, and vintage tram and train are all well worth a visit, along with Can Prunera, the Modernista mansion and art museum in the town. For pure relaxation, head for the port of Sóller’s picturesque horseshoe bay, where sandy beaches are backed by a plethora of restaurants and cafés along the promenade.
By evening, the stylish yachts have drifted away from the bay of Sa Foradada, and the last walkers have plodded back along the fragrant path leading to Son Marroig. The air is rich with the pungent aromas of rosemary and pine, and the sun has sunk below the horizon.
Once again, the wild headland returns to its natural state, no longer the playground of billionaires and their guests – but of soaring falcons and eagles in search of prey.
Essentials
BA, easyJet, and Jet2 fly direct to Palma de Mallorca from major UK airports. The five-star Son Bunyola Hotel, Banyalbufar has rooms from €560 (£480) in low season and €1,320 (£1,130) in high, including breakfast, complimentary in-room minibar, and activities.