Perched on the Harbour Arm, with the sea lapping in front and behind, The Turner Contemporary Art Gallery casts a long beam of light. It’s a symbol of modern Margate, often literally glinting in the peachy glow of those Turner-esque sunsets, it has lured many an artist – and tourist – to the south coast’s unofficial capital of seaside cool.
The gallery opened in 2011, signalling a new era for the town with an influx of creatives, followed by the musicians, performers, restaurateurs, social entrepreneurs, coffee obsessives and wine aficionados.
Derelict buildings have been transformed into multi-use arts venues and you’ll find a recherché spectrum of quirky bars and bijou restaurants. Margate’s most famous local artist, Dame Tracey Emin, who turned the town’s crumbling bath house, printing press and morgue into artist residencies and gallery spaces; on a visit to the town, her friend Madonna reportedly found Margate to be her “idea of heaven”.
As a longtime resident of the town, I know it’s not perfect: the peeling paint of dilapidated faded grandeur still flakes and there is still grappling to be done balancing the legacy of its gritty history and buzzy present. But its beautiful coastal scenery, fascinating art, innovative cuisine and trendy bars make it a creative paradise on sea.
Here’s my guide to making the most of a visit to Margate.
Things to do
Dreamland
££ | dreamland.co.uk
By day the rides, slides and sideshows at this vintage-styled theme park packs in enough to keep kids’ excitement levels high and adrenalin pumping. There are classic funfair amusements like the chair-o-plane, ghost train, waltzer, Ferris wheel and pirate ship, plus indoor fun with classic penny arcades, a roller disco, pinball machines and VR games. But by night, the site transforms into an upscale outdoor music venue with acts spanning the genres and performances taking place throughout summer weekends.
Turner Contemporary
Free | turnercontemporary.org
While you’re unlikely to learn much about the museum’s famous namesake painter here, you will find world-class contemporary art from around the world. With three to four big shows a year, the main gallery space is currently filled with the colourful dreamscapes by Hulda Guzmán and, from October, French artist Sophie Calle’s mixed media will be on show. Kids can explore their own creativity in The Drawing Studio, and events – from ceramics markets to film showings – take place throughout the year.
The Crab Museum
Free | crabmuseum.org
You might assume an entire museum dedicated to crustaceans could be a little dry. But, no, on the contrary, this quirky and colourful museum in the heart of the Old Town is a must-visit. Humorously combining fact, fiction and imagination, it will educate, entertain and inform on all things decapod.
The Viking Coast Trail
Free (bike rental ££) | explorekent.org/activities/viking-coastal-trail
The entire Isle of Thanet (comprising Margate, Ramsgate and Broadstairs) can be encircled on the 32-mile Viking Coast trail. It’s probably easiest undertaken on bike (available from Margate Bikes and Hire) or you can do sections on foot. Margate to Broadstairs (take the train or the Loop bus back) is about six miles.
Sunset SUP
The most sensational way to melt into the sunset is on SUP. Learn the basics from an expert guide or glide your way around the coast with seagulls, turnstones, oystercatchers – or even a curious seal, if you’re lucky – for company.
Where to eat
You’ll find your fill of trendy small plates here: the town is bursting with creative menus by both established and up-and-coming names on the culinary scene, often incorporating fresh seafood and Kentish produce. There are fabulous choices for fine dining, but it’s the under-the-radar, smaller spots that really capture the flavour and magic of the town.
Angelas
£££ | angelasofmargate.com
Nothing says seaside like fresh seafood, and Angela’s has been serving sustainably caught, innovatively cooked fish and seafood – along with simple, seasonal vegetable-based dishes – for nearly a decade. Newly opened this summer, however, is Angela’s Wine Bar, serving small plates (replacing their sister restaurant Dory’s which was on the seafront) along with cocktails, and local wines, including the town’s very own Margate Wine, made from locally grown bacchus grapes.
Cliftonville Dining Room
£ | instagram.com/cliftonville_diningroom
Located in the heart of trendy Cliftonville, the concept is affordable dining (two courses for £25) with elevated nostalgia: for example scallops with pea and mint sauce finished off with chorizo vinaigrette, and chicken three ways with walnut, apricot and carrot and cardamom puree. The space is cosy and feels like being invited to an intimate dinner party by someone you’ve never met.
Pomus
££ | pomus.co.uk
Casual yet refined dining with a menu of hearty, innovative sharing plates and a comprehensive wine list. The popcorn chicken with mango and gochujang is a winner, plus there are plenty of vegetarian options. The same team also runs the kitchen at nearby Fort Road Hotel along with a small food shack on the harbour arm.
A Perfect Place to Grow
Located in the grounds of the Tracey Emin Foundation, this daytime cafe serving a seasonally revolving menu of brunch and lunch options is also a training kitchen supporting 18–24-year-olds. The collaboration between the head chefs from Angelas and Bottega Caruso along with guidance from social entrepreneur Anistasia James helps young people facing barriers to sustainable employment. Fresh veg is grown locally, menus change weekly.
The Bus Café
£ | thebuscafe.co.uk
Housed in an old bus right on the seafront, you might be forgiven for thinking this place a gimmicky tourist trap. But, no, it’s hands-down the best place for an all-day breakfast in town – and award-winning, no less. Catering for carnivores, vegetarians, vegans, the hungover and the waist-watchers, the menu has all bases covered.
Where to drink
The sophisticaterati of Margate are drinking skin-on wines, orange wines, vinho verde and award-winning sparkling wines from nearby Kentish vineyards; they’re drinking small-batch craft brews and local ales from Northdown Brewery and Floc and they’re going off-piste with creative cocktails dreamed up by resident mixologists. Here are a few of my favourites.
Little Swift
The perfect place for a sunset sip, this seafront bar specialises in natural wines and innovative cocktails. Often with a seaside twist, cocktails infuse botanicals grown in their own roof garden with classic recipes – like the Coastal Negroni and Thai Lime Marg. There are also cheese and charcuterie platters on offer.
Xylo
£ | xylobrew.com
A few doors down from Little Swift, Xylo is a microbrewery and tap room. It’s a craft-beer drinker’s heaven, where the latest ales are chalked up on a blackboard behind the bar. From light session IPAs to stronger variations sampled in thirds, you can sip at your leisure with both outdoor seating for summer and a cosy mezzanine snug in the winter.
Rooftop at No. 42
££ | guesthousehotels.co.uk/no-42-margate/rooftop-bar
You don’t need to be a hotel guest to sip a sundowner here. Arguably the best view in town, this rooftop bar feels like your own private beach club. Food is available downstairs at the Pearly Cow, and the Sunday brunch is a great hangover cure.
Bar Nothing
£ | instagram.com/_bar_nothing
At Bar Nothing I’ve had my tarot read, donned full fancy dress for Halloween, discovered incredible singer-songwriters and bought vintage threads from a Sunday pop-up. It’s gritty and eclectic: You never quite know what’s going to happen next.
The Last Light
£ | instagram.com/thelastlightmargate
Up on Northdown Road, this is where the locals of Cliftonville drink. A classic neighbourhood boozer that feels like it’s always been here, despite only just celebrating its first birthday. It’s a spot for post-work pints and Sunday board games.
Where to stay
With private suites and epic sea views, No.42 by Guesthouse is the perfect choice for a sunny weekend escape. Similarly, Fort Road Hotel offers effortless luxury and cosy respite if the weather takes a turn. For something a little more quirky, book a room at cosy pub George and Heart House. I recommend booking up to a year in advance for popular summer weekends.