From strategic maritime outpost for exporting marble in the 1800s to scenic seaside refuge for the upper classes in the mid-1900s, Forte dei Marmi (literally “Marble Fort”) has long been an oasis for well-to-do entrepreneurs, aristocrats and intellectuals.
They came in droves after the Second World War, when the money began flowing during Italy’s “Great Miracle” rebuilding phase. A few blocks from the beach, gated villas gradually appeared in the pine wood, framed by the striking Apuan Alps, whose refreshing breezes brought relief on the hottest of summer days.
Today, this enclave on the stretch of northern Tuscan coastline known as Versilia attracts moneyed Italians and foreigners (mainly Russians) who come as much for the beach as the “Forte” – as it is affectionately known – lifestyle.
Set a 30-minute drive north of Pisa, not only is Forte pristine, with every palm tree and oleander bush lining the orderly path along the seafront having been meticulously pruned, but it is also strikingly quiet for a seaside resort. While there are a few dance clubs that attract a posh crowd, overall, the town maintains a surprisingly peaceful atmosphere and sense of wholesome discretion.
Despite the abundance of designer boutiques lining the main vie and Ferraris heading toward the beach, Forte has somehow managed to maintain a low-key vibe. In the mornings, you’ll see families biking to Da Valè, acclaimed for its focaccine (focaccia rounds) for almost a century. Distinguished gentlemen gather in the coffee bars surrounding Piazza Garibaldi, poring over the Corriere della Sera. After sunset, endearingly pinafore-clad youngsters clamour to reach the ponies and vintage go-karts in the shady market square (actually a large oval).
The street market is where much of the shopping in town happens. Typically held on Wednesdays (also on Sundays in summer), its stalls offer, among other things, a fine selection of handicrafts, local gourmet specialities, cashmere, leather goods and jewellery. There’s a similar, though perhaps less glamorous, street market on Saturdays a short bike ride away in nearby Marina di Pietrasanta.
This stretch of the Versilia coastline is lined with wide sandy beaches and home to exclusive bathing clubs that stretch as far as the eye can see. That said, there are also a handful of free public beaches: the largest and most popular is WWF Park Le Dune on the north side of town, which may not have rental umbrellas or sunbeds, but are roamed by enterprising beach vendors laden with beach-day staples at reasonable prices. The waters of the Mediterranean are clean in this part of Tuscany and quite shallow, making it popular with families.
For maximum comfort and pampering, reserve a day (or week, or more) at one of the beach clubs, which offer access to a wide range of facilities, including personal changing cabanas, showers, a snack bar, a restaurant and often even a pool and children’s play area. Many hotels have special arrangements with the local beach clubs, but if that isn’t an option, expect to pay at least £100 for a gazebo for the day, which usually comes with a combination of sunbeds and chairs.
For a real splurge, head to Alpemare, the beach club owned by the Bocelli family, where the world-renowned tenor has been known to spontaneously serenade guests in the evening.
When you’ve had enough of the sun and sand, make your way 10 minutes inland to Pietrasanta for a brief cultural interlude. This medieval town is slightly cooler (both in temperature and temperament) than Forte dei Marmi, and is teeming with art galleries, marble workshops, bohemian boutiques and cute cafés.
There is nothing better than ending the day watching the sun set over the water, so you will want to return to Forte for dinner. Try Ristorante Gilda, an upscale seafood restaurant attached to one of the town’s landmark beach clubs. As you stroll back to town, grab an icy treat at one of the many gelaterias along Via Mazzini.
Sometimes referred to as Italy’s Hamptons, Italy’s elite have flocked to Forte for generations, seeking the glamorous pursuits and simple pleasures offered in abundance by this exclusive corner of the Tuscan coast.
In the late 1940s, as Forte dei Marmi began to take off as a posh seaside resort, Eugenio Montale, an Italian poet, penned a tongue-in-cheek chronicle of his first sojourn in Versilia. “There’s no other place that offers such a combination of solitude and high society, servile conventions and naturist freedom,” he wrote, somewhat scathingly. And yet, perhaps in spite of himself, he would return to Forte again and again for decades. Venture there this summer, and you may well find yourself doing the same.